Thursday, May 14, 2009

Daring Cooks: Ricotta Gnocchi

For the first edition of the Daring Cooks, our hosts, Lis of La Mia Cucina and Ivonne at Cream Puffs in Venice chose Ricotta Gnocchi from The Zuni Café Cookbook by Judy Rodgers. I've actually made ricotta gnocchi in the past but the technique was different. Many of the new Daring Cooks decided to make ricotta from scratch and even though I've done it before, I decided to go store bought this time. Having just moved when I made it, I wasn't feeling up to making the ricotta at home.

Making the ricotta gnocchi was actually easier this time around than when I made before. Then I had to roll the gnocchi out into ropes and cut at a specified length. A bit of a pain since I had very little counter space at the time. This time around, I scooped up a bit with two spoons and molded it slightly before (gently) dropping the gnocchi into a pile of flour. My gnocchi ended up being bigger than I think they were supposed to be. The recipe yield says almost 4 dozen and I got just over 2 dozen. Oh well, at least I didn't have to make ricotta snakes this time.

I added a dash of nutmeg and bit of chopped garlic to the dough. The nutmeg wasn't noticeable but that was probably due to the garlic. For my sauce, I went pretty simple. The last time I made ricotta gnocchi I went with a butter sauce but this time I decided on a tomato sauce. I took 1 can of diced petite tomatoes (with juice), 1 tsp of balsamic vinegar, a dash or two of garlic powder, 1/4 tsp of black pepper, and a generous pinch of salt. Very, very tasty! I loved the balsamic with the tomatoes. It gave it just enough tang but not too much so it didn't overwhelm the tomatoes or the gnocchi.

I was much happier with the sauce than the gnocchi. The gnocchi tasted fine but the texture or something was never quite right. They were supposed to be delicate but mine seemed to be really delicate. I had to be super gentle in removing them from the water or they would fall apart. They reminded me of egg whites. Big, puffy egg whites. Of course, I'm sure this probably due to my making them so big. Obviously, I sabotaged my own gnocchi!

I only made 5 of the gnocchi since they were so big. I froze the rest for later. I forgot to line the tray with parchment and flour before putting them in to freeze though. It wasn't a big deal, just needed a pry with a butter knife and they popped right off. It will be interesting to see if they cook up easier from frozen than fresh.

Overall, this was a great intro into the Daring Cooks. I look forward to more challenges with this new group!

Ricotta Gnocchi

You can see more Ricotta Gnocchi by checking out the Daring Cooks Blogroll!

Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi

Source: From The Zuni Café Cookbook.

Yield: Makes 40 to 48 gnocchi (serves 4 to 6)

Prep time: Step 1 will take 24 hours. Steps 2 through 4 will take approximately 1 hour.

Tips:

- If you can find it, use fresh ricotta. As Judy Rodgers advises in her recipe, there is no substitute for fresh ricotta. It may be a bit more expensive, but it's worth it.
- Do not skip the draining step. Even if the fresh ricotta doesn't look very wet, it is. Draining the ricotta will help your gnocchi tremendously.
- When shaping your gnocchi, resist the urge to over handle them. It's okay if they look a bit wrinkled or if they're not perfectly smooth.
- If you're not freezing the gnocchi for later, cook them as soon as you can. If you let them sit around too long they may become a bit sticky.
- For the variations to the challenge recipe, please see the end of the recipe.

Equipment required:

- Sieve
- Cheesecloth or paper towels
- Large mixing bowl
- Rubber spatula
- Tablespoon
- Baking dish or baking sheet
- Wax or parchment paper
- Small pot
- Large skillet
- Large pan or pot (very wide in diameter and at least 2 inches deep)

Videos that might help:

- Judy Rodgers Gnocchi Demo
- Making fresh ricotta demo
- Making ricotta gnocchi

For the gnocchi:

1 pound (454 grams/16 ounces) fresh ricotta (2 cups)
2 large cold eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) unsalted butter
2 or 3 fresh sage leaves, or a few pinches of freshly grated nutmeg, or a few pinches of chopped lemon zest (all optional)
½ ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated (about ¼ cup very lightly packed)
about ¼ teaspoon salt (a little more if using kosher salt)
all-purpose flour for forming the gnocchi

For the gnocchi sauce:

8 tablespoons (227 grams/1/4 pound/4 ounces) butter, sliced
2 teaspoons water

Step 1 (the day before you make the gnocchi): Preparing the ricotta.

If the ricotta is too wet, your gnocchi will not form properly. In her cookbook, Judy Rodgers recommends checking the ricotta’s wetness. To test the ricotta, take a teaspoon or so and place it on a paper towel. If you notice a very large ring of dampness forming around the ricotta after a minute or so, then the ricotta is too wet. To remove some of the moisture, line a sieve with cheesecloth or paper towels and place the ricotta in the sieve. Cover it and let it drain for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours in the refrigerator. Alternatively, you can wrap the ricotta carefully in cheesecloth (2 layers) and suspend it in your refrigerator for 8 to 24 hours with a bowl underneath to catch the water that’s released. Either way, it’s recommended that you do this step the day before you plan on making the gnocchi.

Step 2 (the day you plan on eating the gnocchi): Making the gnocchi dough.

To make great gnocchi, the ricotta has to be fairly smooth. Place the drained ricotta in a large bowl and mash it as best as you can with a rubber spatula or a large spoon (it’s best to use a utensil with some flexibility here). As you mash the ricotta, if you noticed that you can still see curds, then press the ricotta through a strainer to smooth it out as much as possible.

Add the lightly beaten eggs to the mashed ricotta.

Melt the tablespoon of butter. As it melts, add in the sage if you’re using it. If not, just melt the butter and add it to the ricotta mixture.

Add in any flavouring that you’re using (i.e., nutmeg, lemon zest, etc.). If you’re not using any particular flavouring, that’s fine.

Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and the salt.

Beat all the ingredients together very well. You should end up with a soft and fluffy batter with no streaks (everything should be mixed in very well).

Step 3: Forming the gnocchi.

Fill a small pot with water and bring to a boil. When it boils, salt the water generously and keep it at a simmer. You will use this water to test the first gnocchi that you make to ensure that it holds together and that your gnocchi batter isn’t too damp.

In a large, shallow baking dish or on a sheet pan, make a bed of all-purpose flour that’s ½ an inch deep.

With a spatula, scrape the ricotta mixture away from the sides of the bowl and form a large mass in the centre of your bowl.

Using a tablespoon, scoop up about 2 to 3 teaspoons of batter and then holding the spoon at an angle, use your finger tip to gently push the ball of dough from the spoon into the bed of flour.

At this point you can either shake the dish or pan gently to ensure that the flour covers the gnocchi or use your fingers to very gently dust the gnocchi with flour. Gently pick up the gnocchi and cradle it in your hand rolling it to form it in an oval as best as you can, at no point should you squeeze it. What you’re looking for is an oval lump of sorts that’s dusted in flour and plump.

Gently place your gnocchi in the simmering water. It will sink and then bob to the top. From the time that it bobs to the surface, you want to cook the gnocchi until it’s just firm. This could take 3 to 5 minutes.

If your gnocchi begins to fall apart, this means that the ricotta cheese was probably still too wet. You can remedy this by beating a teaspoon of egg white into your gnocchi batter. If your gnocchi batter was fluffy but the sample comes out heavy, add a teaspoon of beaten egg to the batter and beat that in. Test a second gnocchi to ensure success.

Form the rest of your gnocchi. You can put 4 to 6 gnocchi in the bed of flour at a time. But don’t overcrowd your bed of flour or you may damage your gnocchi as you coat them.

Have a sheet pan ready to rest the formed gnocchi on. Line the sheet pan with wax or parchment paper and dust it with flour.

You can cook the gnocchi right away, however, Judy Rodgers recommends storing them in the refrigerator for an hour prior to cooking to allow them to firm up.

Step 4: Cooking the gnocchi.

Have a large skillet ready to go. Place the butter and water for the sauce in the skillet and set aside.

In the largest pan or pot that you have (make sure it’s wide), bring at least 2 quarts of water to a boil (you can use as much as 3 quarts of water if your pot permits). You need a wide pot or pan so that your gnocchi won’t bump into each other and damage each other.

Once the water is boiling, salt it generously.

Drop the gnocchi into the water one by one. Once they float to the top, cook them for 3 to 5 minutes (as in the case with the test gnocchi).

When the gnocchi float to the top, you can start your sauce while you wait for them to finish cooking.

Place the skillet over medium heat and melt the butter. Swirl it gently a few times as it melts. As soon as it melts and is incorporated with the water, turn off the heat. Your gnocchi should be cooked by now.

With a slotted spoon, remove the gnocchi from the boiling water and gently drop into the butter sauce. Carefully roll in the sauce until coated. Serve immediately.

Variations: For the gnocchi, you can flavour them however you wish. If you want to experiment by adding something to your gnocchi (i.e., caramelized onion, sundried tomato), feel free to do so. However, be forewarned, ricotta gnocchi are delicate and may not take well to elaborate additions. For the sauce, this is your chance to go nuts. Enjoy yourselves. Surprise us!!!

Freezing the gnocchi: If you don’t want to cook your gnocchi right away or if you don’t want to cook all of them, you can make them and freeze them. Once they are formed and resting on the flour-dusted, lined tray, place them uncovered in the freezer. Leave them for several hours to freeze. Once frozen, place them in a plastic bag. Remove the air and seal the bag. Return to the freezer. To cook frozen gnocchi, remove them from the bag and place individually on a plate or on a tray. Place in the refrigerator to thaw completely. Cook as directed for fresh gnocchi.

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11 Treats for Charlie:

MyKitchenInHalfCups said...

Good show Heather!!
I love your simple tomato sauce, that's pretty much what I've done for a fast and good sauce - I think I owe it all the the balsamic!

pinkstripes said...

Yum! Your additions sound great. Your gnocchi and sauce look wonderful.

kellypea said...

Sounds fabulous! And you've really lit a flame under my rump because I still haven't make it thinking it wasn't to go up until the 17th. Oh well... : )

CRUISNDIVA said...

Great job Heather! Your gnocchi look delish!

lisamichele said...

Lov the addition of the balsamic vinegar, and your gnocchi turned out great. Kudos to a ricotta gnocchi well done!

Lori said...

I thought this was agreat first recipe as well. I am looking forward to the next one.

Audax said...

Great work and these little pillows of yummmmminesss are so worth it. I like your very honest comments. And a simple sauce like tomato is exactly right. Cheers from Audax in Australia.

abby said...

i can't begin to imagine how fiddly rolling snakes of that mix would have been - it was so delicate!

Arundathi said...

The sauce does look nice. And yes, my gnocchi were definitely delicate but incredibly firmed up after cooking!

Lauren said...

Mmm, your gnocchi look amazing!! Awesome job on this challenge =D.

TeaLady said...

I loved this first challenge, even tho it gave me a little trouble. I had never had gnocchi before, but made it again the next day. Love the simple sauce you used. I used a sun dried tomato pesto and it was quite tasty. Yours look great.

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